The 135 is lighter, but that's its only advantage. I had a 70-200 f/4 that i used unstopped at 200 with awesome results. The next 200mm lens of excellent quality is the 200mm F4 Nikkor F which requires the Nikon F to EOS adapter. Yes, she's isolated. As if absolutely clueless Youtube instructors who have no idea what they are talking about weren't enough. During the frigid months of winter, my motivation to spend over an hour setting up my complete deep-sky imaging rig dwindles. The image below was captured using a DSLR and 135mm lens on the Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer mount. Or is there a use case for fitting the Samyang 135mm to a Panasonic gx85 (or Panasonic gh5) ?? (purchased for $900), reviewed August 22nd, 2008 Tack sharp at f/2. - posted in Beginning Deep Sky Imaging: I have recently received my star adventurer and as of now only have the star adventurer, benro tripod (super stable), and a unmodded canon t2i with only a 18-55mm lens. Now i have the f2.8 version, and while the resolution is better it s under no circumstance as good as the f/4 one. Pentax seems to have put more emphasis than others on keeping the resolution uniform all over the field. A lot of us have been saying this for years. Instead it means the style of rendering. Overall, spectacular lens. Bond, I expect you to buy! Touching the telescope, even ever so slightly, will introduce vibrations which will ruin the photograph. Still, what a time to be an enthusiast/photog, so many nice options. Some of the primes have a special look to them, but only the 70-200 is indispensable. We sell a wide variety of digital cameras from all the top brands like Canon, Nikon, Sony, Panasonic, Olympus, Fujifilm, Pentax, Leica, Samsung, and more. Here is a short list of great astrophotography targets to shoot at 135mm with this lens: Below, is an incredible example of the types of projects possible with the Rokinon 135mm F/2.0 lens. Not too heavy. The 50mm f/1.4 and f/1.2 is another story.While the 135mm f/2, in general, is a good lens, there are lots of lenses other than the 135 f/2 that will produce a very smoothly blurred background, including zoom lenses.It sounds like Micael is new to photography.Just my impression from this article. I've seen several listed but here are more to consider. When I got home and loaded the photo into Lightroom I was blown away by two things. Camera tech for video has come a long way in recent years, with faster autofocus, subject tracking, eye tracking and smarter lenses that stabilize the frame. You can use Stellarium to preview the image scale with the 135mm lens and your DSLR. Well, for me. Also, as creative as the wide-field 135mm focal length is, its not practical for smaller DSOs and most galaxies. Thanks, Chris, hi Trevor my name is sagar i have same lens but i have one question why lot of stars are appearing in my image which is taken thru rokinon 135mm, Your email address will not be published. Samyang 85mm f1.83. No rubber sealing against the camera body tend to give me the creeps when shooting in the wet. How's that for an endorsement? It's not the most versatile lens, but it's very great for tight portrait shoots; background blur is creamy IMO; one of the best 'bokeh' lens. For this reason, a combination of a good light pollution filter, and the use of flat calibration frames are recommended. Have not used a 70-200 since. Sure, the Nifty 50 is an incredible value (and a LOT cheaper), but the 135mm puts you within range of some of the best astrophotography targets in the night sky. And now important part: This lens can be stopped down if desired effect is not required and no, with 85/1.8 you will never get this effect. It's March, and in America that means it's time to start arguing over which college athletics team is the best at basketball. We revisit a classic DPReviewTV episode in which Chris Niccolls and Jordan Drake shoot a few rolls of Fujifilm's Acros 100 II, and a few frames on the X-T3 in Acros film simulation, to find out. The first telephoto lens of choice, especially recommended for beginners, is the 135mm F2.5 SMC Pentax. In excellent condition, this lens retails for around $200. ", I'd no problem with that. Trully sharp accross whole frame from f2 on 5d. Image quality is great, it is tack-sharp wide-open even though for partraiture, a little bit of softness is needed. The image shown below covers 4.96 x 5.98 degrees in the constellation Cassiopeia. I have been following your work both on YT and here from Japan for a while. This way you get both lenses with only one! The diameter of the lens is 77mm, with a non-rotating filter mount on the objective lens. The 200f2.8 L is excellent - I am using it right now. 8MP is plenty for the usual 8x10 or 16x20 portrait print. " Otherwise I might not achieve focus? the lens is built strong, very strong. Crazy fast AF! It starts out very sharp at f/2.0, gets even sharper at f/2.8, and softens only slightly at f/11. The few occasions I use a 135 FL usually are landscape shots (where I have no use for f2) and childrens playing (where I need zoom and fast af). Finally, although we don't explicitly test for it, we have to note that this lens' bokeh (rendering of out-of-focus objects) is really excellent as well. There have been a lot of Tele-Tessars over the years. I am still very proud of some of the photos I shoot with a Pentax O450 15 years ago - a good smartphone camera today is at least as capable. 21P Giacobini Zinner NGC1499 California Barnard 8 Cr399 Coathanger North America and Pelican Veil nebula HORGB M11 cluster area Read on to find out which you should be using and why! The APO showed no chromatic aberration at all with the addition of the Astronomik UV/IR cut clip filter (passing 380-680nm), but the telephoto lenses, even when stopped down, showed a tight bright red ring around all stars. Bokeh is buttery smooth, best you can get from a 135mm. Really like the large focusing ring. Probably you could get a very similar image with a 85mm 1.8. 24/28mm, 50mm, 100mm, 200mm. CAs: a little in the OOF area - not disturbing anyway. For some objects a reflection can take away from the photo because it covers interesting details of the object (Think Alnitak in the Horsehead Nebula). A camera tracker (or star tracker) is necessary for long exposure deep-sky astrophotography, but a compact model such as the iOptron SkyTracker or Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer will do just fine. Testing on an EOS-5D, we see that it's sharpness is almost as good wide open in the corners as on the EOS-20D with its smaller sensor. Thats quite a jump from 135mm, so the camera body you use with this lens may change the types of targets you shoot. You're right, but a headshot is exactly where I want to see all those megapixels I bought put to use! In an effort to save money, Id like to start using a Canon 80D that we already own to start picking targets and imaging. Wonderful image quality, lots of detail, contrasty, subject separation, fast and accurate AF, bright viewfinder, solid construction, unobtrusive in use, No weather sealing, makes all my other lenses look poor (even the 'L' zooms that, when I first got them, imagined could hardly be improved on). I've owned a few L lenses and while their USM motors have always been quick to snap in focus, this 135mm is on a different level. Add To Cart. He loves photography, and runs a YouTube channel with tutorials, lens reviews and photography inspiration. With todays huge variety of digital sensors, each with their own characteristics, in-camera and post-processing etc., much depends on the given combination of your photo gear to create a certain effect. I use it to photograph highschool basketball in poor light. The EOS R6 II arrives in one of the most competitive parts of the market, facing off against some very capable competition. But the Rokinon f/2 version fits into a different market. Literally it means "blur" so you could just as well use the dictionary definition below the top match from Google search: Bokeh - the visual quality of the out-of-focus areas of a photographic image, especially as rendered by a particular lens. Hate these presumptuous kinds of articles and headlines. Image quality, weight and value for money. They were not however designed to be bokeh monsters though that was just a side effect of making them fast and people bought them for speed with bokeh being the afterthought so not Bokeh for the sake of Bokeh as he said. Stuff I used to take the photos in this video:- The Canon 135mm f2 lens: https://amzn.to/346Paz7- Sony A7III Camera: https://amzn.to/2xM776q- Sony Grip exten. I cant seem to find this documented anywhere. Sharp, handy, strong colours and contrast. What's it got and what's it like to use? No rear seals - since the 17-40 Canon has added rear seals to L lenses, to help in weather sealing. It really is about talent, creativity, and vision, not gear. tanie i dobre opinie 9 opatek lub Biznes HUMAN Sport Insect Architektura Specjalne Krajobrazy Martwa natura Podry People 2023 Obiektyw o staej ogniskowej Such "full spectrum" cameras are somewhat more sensitive in the ultraviolet, but much more sensitive in the deep red and infrared. We case our eye over the options costing more than $2500 but less than $4000, to find the best all-rounder. I heard it's very sharp and well corrected. Second night out with mine right now and I am here in the comments looking for the part number or link! Because it manage to do so. I have had a blast with a samyang, but a used 135mm f2.8 is VERY . You may need to stop down to control star bloat, and thats exactly what Ive done with this 135. The Canon EF 135mm f/2L USM Lens makes an excellent indoor sports lens. The 135 f/2 is not perfect. (purchased for $800), reviewed March 15th, 2010 But again i am just at the beginning and i also do not want to use now a telescope. But when holes in text prompt me to look at the work of the writer, there is nothing professional there either. It would not surprise me if modern lenses were useable at full aperture. With a good smartphone, some creative legwork, and the photos scaled down as they are in this article you can make photos that at least just as good. Asahi Optical's Pentax KX was one of the first cameras with this lens mount, acting as a midrange model in the lineup. This article was originally published on Micael's blog, and is being republished in full with express permission. Built quality is wonderful, focus ring is well-damped. But you raise the exact point, that primes should be chosen with a 2x factor. In 3 months I got loosy focus ring. That's a cheap, fun date for AP. It just doesn't get any better than this! You are entitled to your opinions, and I respect that! F2 allows higher shutter speeds in lower light without raising the ISO. You don't have to worry about shopping for a better lens anymore. Samyang 135mm f2, 100mm f2.8, and asperical 16mm f2.8. Best lenses for astrophotography: 50, 85 and 135mm - DSLR, Mirrorless & General-Purpose Digital Camera DSO Imaging - Cloudy Nights Cloudy Nights Astrophotography and Sketching DSLR, Mirrorless & General-Purpose Digital Camera DSO Imaging CNers have asked about a donation box for Cloudy Nights over the years, so here you go. This lens has the Pentax K bayonet mount, and requires the K-EOS adapter for attachment to Canon EOS cameras. I really like how they augment my longer focal length scopes. My first photo of the night sky is of Comet NEOWISE, however I know its not the best photo I could capture. I prefer this lens than the 70-200/2.8. (purchased for $1,000), reviewed January 1st, 2007 What's the best camera for shooting sports and action? I am no stranger to the full manual control of this lens, for both aperture and focus. f1.4 was a necessisty rather than a creative luxury. One of them is simplicity: A clear, simple subject that constitutes a shape, standing out and contrasting against a calm and simple background. My first shot was a section of the constellation Sagittarius that included the Lagoon Nebula, and Trifid Nebula. But you couldn't have because you don't know even as much as this guy. For that I would investigate alternatives just to make sure. Geometric distortion is lower than one would expect, at 0.15% pincushion maximum, with an average of 0.07%. Amazing sharpness wide open at F2.0 and the focus ring is nice and firm not tight you don't really need to tape it down for astrophotography. The only downside with that lens is that it is manual focus, which might not be suitable for photographing sports or children. - Actually though, it's performance is so good that you really have to consider it a bargain, even at the $800-900 street price. With weather sealing this would be a 10. It's terrible. Is it possible to get good results on a Baader filter modifed Canon 450D and a good telephoto lens, or do I need to get a good APO? Of course, when it comes to astrophotography, this can create some challenges as well. Litepanels Studio X2 Bi-Color LED Fresnel Light. AF is accurate and very fast. Not rude at all, a fair comment. The logic of this article can be applied to a 200/2.8 as well. Olympus 4x Optical Zoom f/2 Lens; 25-100mm (35mm Equivalent) Show More. The Rokinon 135mm F2.0 is considered to be a full-frame lens because it can accommodate a full-frame image sensor with its 18.8-degree angle of view. Ironically all the sample images in this post are painfully soft. Please re-enable javascript to access full functionality. Wonderful, smooth bokeh. The lens is so crisp that the diaphragm blade pattern is visible on point light sources shot at large aperature. I have the Canon 135 f/2 and loved it from day one. Focus are dead on with my Fullframe or APS system. (37% is difference, so you get little more, about 15.5Mpix). As it is it is earns a 9. The Olympus Zuiko 180/2.8 and 100/2.8 impressed me in the 1980s, but in the digital era they are not so sharp. Were those taken with the Canon telephotos you spoke of, and the full spectrum modified camera and the clip in filter? With the high megapixel cameras, most people are going to ideally want to shoot at 1/200 or faster. Mr Ericsson makes a very good point, and to go and dig irrelevant background info on him to discredit him is just well THAT is trolling.